Family Resort Find: Smugglers’ Notch

Wednesday, August 26, 2009 by Rudy Maxa.

I think I found the ultimate family resort this week—a summer camp on steroids, a Neverland without the weirdness. It’s not a secret place—Smugglers’ Notch Vermont, approximately a 35-minute drive from Burlington, has been around since 1956. But throughout the years, it has morphed into a sprawling resort with upscale condos, waterparks, tennis courts and—in the winter—ski slopes. Plus, there are enough kids’ activities to fill a year of Saturdays.

Last week I wrote about a young man who began planning his family vacations when he was in the second grade. This posting is for the family that just wants to stay together and play together.

Lodging at Smugglers’ Notch Vermont, or “Smuggs” as it’s called, is a collection of low-rise and low-density condos that management calls “homes,” and most owners put their units in a rental pool. There are approximately 650 units ranging from studios to five bedrooms that can accommodate more than 2,500 guests. I stayed in a building called “Falcons” in a lovely, two bedroom with a complete kitchen, two gas fireplaces, four television sets, washer/dryer and balcony. Both bathrooms were large, one with a walk-in shower as well as a spa bath, the other with a bath/shower and two sinks. And although 650 “homes” may sound like a lot, management promises that no matter where you stand on the hilly property, you’ll never be able to see more than 20 or 30 other units.

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Aerial view of Smuggler's Notch. Courtesy of Smuggler's Notch Vermont

Smugglers’ Notch is a lovely, unspoiled, deep green slice of Vermont in Mount Mansfield State Park, part of the state’s Green Mountain chain. The pass, or notch, that permits driving from Smuggs on one side of Mount Mansfield (altitude: 2,162 feet at its crest) to the postcard-perfect town of Stowe on the other is closed in the winter because the road narrows. That worked to the advantage of bootleggers who sneaked in booze from Canada during Prohibition.

Smuggs is on the side of the mountain you reach first when driving from Burlington. The check-in desk is in a village in the center of the resort with restaurants and shops. Along with a key, guests receive a list of activities available, including supervised daytime activities for kids ranging from age six months to 18. With eight pools, four waterslides, a driving range, tennis courts and organized hikes, Smuggs is a smorgasbord of activities too numerous to list. Check out the website for the exhaustive menu.

If you can find time to leave the resort, you can visit the home of Ben & Jerry’s ice cream—always a crowd pleaser with kids—while adults can browse the shops of Stowe. A 2,300-foot Alpine slide at nearby Stowe Mountain Resort will thrill even the most jaded teenager while a hot-air balloon ride at sunrise or sunset offers a bird’s eye view of the lush landscape. In the winter, of course, it’s mostly about skiing, and SKI magazine has named Smugs the top family ski resort in North America for ten years running.

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In the winter, the resort turns into a skier's dream. Courtesy of Smuggler's Notch Vermont.

After owning a condo at Smuggs for 11 years, owner Bill Stritzler liked the place so much that he bought it in 1987 and decided, “we’re going to be do one thing, and we’re going to do it better than anyone else.” That one thing is family fun. Don’t go to Smuggs looking for a secluded, romantic week in the mountains with gourmet dining and expensive wines. This is a place for kids and their parents. It’s also a terrific location for a family reunion because no kid will ever be bored.

“We’re the largest single location day camp for kids,” Stritzler says, and in the summer, more than 150 camp counselors are lined up to deliver the fun.

What’s it cost? Figure on about $400 a night for a family of four in a one bedroom; that price includes all-day children’s programs. But, frankly, there are so many packages and options that it’s wise to shop carefully and call for a quote. Prices have been rolled back five years, and you can save an additional 15 percent if you book online in August.

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About Rudy Maxa

Rudy Maxa

Rudy Maxa is host and executive producer of the public television travel series, Rudy Maxa's World. The 78 episodes he has hosted have won numerous awards, including a 2008 regional Emmy for his episode "Rajasthan." He's a contributing editor with National Geographic Traveler magazine and has written for a host of national travel magazines and newspapers. For nearly 15 years he offered consumer travel commentary on public radio's business show Marketplace as "The Savvy Traveler," which was also the name of a one-hour, coast-to-coast weekend show on public radio that he co-created and hosted for four years. Prior to his career as a travel writer and broadcaster, Maxa was an award-winning Washington Post investigative reporter, magazine writer, and columnist for 13 years, during which time his reporting was nominated for the Pulitzer Prize. He was a senior writer at The Washingtonian magazine and Washington, D.C., bureau chief of Spy magazine. The author of two non-fiction books, Maxa lives in downtown St. Paul, Minnesota.

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